Italy: Capri

Our flight is delayed out of Sicily so we don’t get in to Naples until 12:30am. We got our hotel through our driver that took us to Cercemaggorie 5 days earlier. He is friends with the owner, who waited up for us that night. It definitely pays to make friends with the right people. He called when we landed even to check to make sure we were alright and on our way. He walks us through the smallest door you have ever seen and through a gorgeous courtyard up to our little room fit with a balcony and AC. He gives us the wifi password and says goodnight. If you are in Naples please first tell me so I can message him then book B&B Monaciello (this).

We drag ourselves out of bed and head to the ferry. Our b&b was located right downtown so it was only a 15 minute walk to the ferry. It leaves at 755am which was aggressive but all the websites said to get to Capri early if you want to go to the Blue Grotto. I can confirm, go early. We stop to get coffee and an croissant and try and find this ferry port. The address takes us to the water but from there we are on our own. 5 minutes to go and we hustle towards a ferry. We find out it is the right one but we need the tickets printed inside. 3 minutes to go we have the tickets in hand and weave in between the tourists trying to get back to the boat. On we go and up to the top deck, and sit down as we hear the whistle sound. Thank God.

45 minutes later we pull up to this incredible island. We purchased day tour passes from the Capri Tour which is the Gold Package. It is a DIY tour of Capri. If you like to be on your own schedule I absolutely suggest this. It included everything you needed to explore this city in a day.

1. Boat Ride around Capri

We head off the ferry and try and find port 0. Finally we get in the right line and grab all our tickets for the day. First is the boat tour around Capri. We line up and enter a gorgeous speed boat. Seriously this day is starting off with promise.

2. Blue Grotto

For an extra 14 euro you can transfer into a tiny wooden boat and be taken into the Blue Grotto. Apparently some Roman emperor found this because he built a palace at the top and created an escape route into this cave. The tide is high so you have to lay down in the boat. We had some cute Italian couple in the boat with us. The woman laughed as she mimed if it was alright to lay on me while we went under.

As we row around this amazing grotto some of the Italians start singing. The songs echo off the cave while the water shimmers through the sun rays.

3. Bus transfer to Anacapri

We return to land in awe and excited to explore. We try to find the bus to take us to Anacapri. We ask a cute Italian who says “oh no this is the public bus, you have a private transfer follow me”. Then he strolls to another Italian who takes us to another Italian to shows us the bus. Got to love a small town. We board the AC bus and sit down. An American tour group joins us and we start up the mountain side. Crashing the tour was nice because we got to learn a bit about the island. You know me, I am all for facts.

Other forms of transportation are walking up 1,000 steps, taking the public bus or taking this cool convertible.

4. Lunch at La Giara

Yes for just 78 euro lunch is included. We befriended our waiter, asked for suggestions and he helped us choose our fantastic lunch. We sat outside and enjoyed sangria. Sadly a hearse passes with a family processing behind it. An older man is held by a younger woman. He walks with pain on his face. Even among all this tourism we are reminded real life happens here.

 

5. Free time to see Anacapri

Now full, it was time to shop. Next to our restaurant was an adorable home. He was selling crocheted baby booties. We got to talking, he invited me through the gate to show me more styles. His wife makes them, he explained with pride. She was at church, naturally. My sister joins and he gives us a tour of his 2 bedroom home and shows us the picture his daughter took of him and his wife on their stoop.

He speaks adorable English with an accent. I choose some booties to buy and thank him. He gives us plums from his garden with a smile.

6. Chair lift to Mount Solaro

Now this is not for the faint of heart or anyone afraid of heights. A cable with single chairs run up the mountainside. The whole ride is probably less than 10 minutes but the experience is a little unnerving. You step where the feet cut outs are, remove all sandals. The chair swings around quickly and you park your booty down. A small metal bar falls down and that is your only security. Up you go!

Do it though because the views are mouth dropping, omg squealing amazing.

7. Bus transfer to Capri (middle area)

After a couple photo shoots we take the chair lift back down which was a little more unnerving. Then board our private bus, this time no one else so actually private for 2, back down to the middle tier of Capri. Here the views continue to amaze each a little different than the last and we sit with some espresso. We are exhausted and burnt. Bring sunscreen.

We explore the rich streets full of insane stores that I couldn’t even pretend to afford. Naturally find an incredible church and a truck full of hydrangeas. Where there is death there is always life.

8.  Funicular (tram) to the port in Marina Grande

On our last legs we find this funicular which is basically a cable car tram that takes you back down to the port.

We see the ferry leaves in an hour back to Naples, grab 2 tickets for about 20 euro and head to find some limoncello. We board the ferry, happy to be sitting. An hour later we pop off the boat and walk back to our b&b. Our incredible owner is there, we settle the bill as he tells us all the pizza places we should eat at.  He also calls a cab for us since our flight leaves at 9am the next day. After 4 minutes of what sounded like an argument he says my favorite phrase “it’s no problem, all taken care of”. He draws on a map where the taxi will get us in the morning. God Bless Italy.

We grab dinner next door then walk around to see what Saturday night in Naples is like. Yes this is still just one day. If you travel with me you will be tired.

We find incredible squares and try and image what 2,000 years ago looked like. I’d say this trip left me speechless but 5 blog posts later I’d be lying to you. The people, the food, the countryside, it is more than anyone could ask.