my feet don't want to go to sleep

Solo traveling is the most freeing experience. Truly the question at all times is “What do I want to do?” No one to consult, no schedule to review. The privilege to live like this is one I try to not take for granted. I had spent over 2 weeks in Vienna for work and to see my parents, had a day trip to Bratislava, but was now ready to move on. Budapest was a quick train ride away. Adding Hungary to the list along with Austria and Slovakia as newly visited countries for me!

European trains and train stations are normally solid experiences. I took the bus to the train station in Vienna easily and waited for my train to Hungary. The train had cute cabins. I did not want to leave my luggage near the door so even though it was 50lbs I dragged it into the cabin. Normally I do not pack this much but with 2 weeks onsite for Cartier I had to dress smartly, not like a backpacker.

I found a hotel with a great rate, free breakfast, strong wifi, and a desk, all within walking distance of downtown Pest. T62 Hotel if you’d like to check it out. I had no cash, no Hungarian, and no idea on what to do in this country. I walked out of the train station trying to find the bus that would take me to the hotel. Public transport over cabs every time.

If you find yourself in Budapest with no plans here is how to make the best of it!

Day 1 – Arrival & Margitsziget

This island, Margitsziget, sits with the Danube running along either side of it between Buda and Pest. I walked across the yellow bridge with art deco styled lampposts and took the smaller bridge onto the island. Running paths, lounge chairs, fountains, musicians, food halls, beer stands, concert venue, this little island had it all. I walked around and watched the sunset behind the hills of Buda alighting the sky to pink. I realized then I was about to have a romantic weekend alone in this city.

Day 2 – Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Fisherman’s Bastion, Tóth Árpád stny, Buda Castle Funicular

Put on your walking shoes and SPF to explore the Buda side of this city. Across the famous chain bridge, up the funicular, enjoy the overlooks from Buda Castle, walk around the gardens and through the city streets over to Fisherman’s Bastion and The Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle or in Hungarian Budavári Nagyboldogasszony-templom. There are benches under some trees for a break from the sun and fountains to fill up your water. The view of the Danube through the porticos are stunning. Take a different path back to the funicular by heading west to see down the hill to the rest of the city. This street, Tóth Árpád stny, is a tree lined path with gorgeous views of the old government buildings. More benches to sit and take in the views.

After taking the funicular down, I stopped at Café Gerbeaud for lunch. $75 later this famous cafe left me feeling a little cheated. Guess that is the issue when you don’t convert from Hungarian to Dollars. There was a 3 piece jazz band playing and I had a gorgeous window seat within the opulent cafe.

My friend joined me after using her time after our work trip to visit Salzburg first. We grabbed the 48 hour city pass. Specifically so we could end the day on the Danube with a sunset boat tour. For dinner, we walked over to Kisharang Étkezde. Recommended as the place to get goulash we were happy to be hungry here.

Day 3 – Walking tour, Gellért Thermal Bath, House of Parliament

My guide and travel companion for the next 48 hour was this city pass. It gives you transportation, walking tours, discounts to the baths, and discounts at restaurants. I bought the pass from one of the many vendors selling them along the river. 100% worth it for someone has no idea what to do.

We started the day with the walking tour which gave us all the history I desperately needed about this city. The empires that came from this part of the world is why their architecture is so stunning. The riches that came from conquering nearby regions grew this and the surrounding areas like Vienna immensely.

Even though it was summer we had to experience the classic Hungarian baths. We chose Gellért and were not disappointed. With indoor heated pools, lap lanes, cold plunges, and an entire outdoor swimming area with lounge chairs, I could of easily spent an entire day there. I cannot imagine how amazing these would feel deep in winter. My muscles so abused from all the walking felt so relaxed from the pools. Leaving we felt as though we floated out.

From here we were hungry and went directly to Krumplis Lángos. This is a Hungarian specialty. I cannot believe it has not been popularized in the US yet. It is fried and has every type of topping on it you can imagine. Customizable, affordable, fast, foreign, this is the type of stuff Americans eat up, literally.

I grabbed one of the last tours of the House of Parliament. I have never seen so much gold in my life. The tour included viewing the royal jewels and reminding yourself that the rich today suck at making beautiful public spaces. I ended the drink with a Hungarian wine tour at Champion Wine Vinarium & Gastro Boutique. The tasting were full pours and I was the only patron. The two older women working there gossiped in the corner in Hungarian as I got drunk alone contemplating life as a solo traveler.

Day 4 – Zugliget Chairlift, Elizabeth Lookout

To close out my city pass I took myself far outside the city. The bus ride was almost an hour but took me from Pest through Buda climbing out of the city. You can access incredible views of the city from the chairlift. The tall trees on either side, the summer breeze blowing by, my feet free with the wild flowers below. At the top you can walk a short well marked path to the Elizabeth lookout. Climbing up the tower with the Hungarian flags blowing fiercely above you can see it all. The city below, the Danube sparkling, the trees, the suburbs, seemingly all of Hungry in the distance.

The view on the chairlift on the way back down was gorgeous, the city slowly coming closer as you descend. Luckily I didn’t have to wait for the bus and made the trip back to the city. Hungry and ready for lunch I headed to Central Market Hall. Everything you’ve ever wanted to eat or buy is available there. I explored the stalls buying tourist gifts, post cards, and eating some street meat.

I took the yellow tram back to my hotel to work my New York hours 3pm to 11pm. I had booked a cheap flight to London tomorrow to meet Heather for the week. One way flights and last minute plans make this traveler’s heart soar. Budapest to some is night raves and parties, to me it was romantic quiet solo sunset strolls.

Honorable mention restaurants I did not have time to visit – TATI Farm to Table, Twentysix Budapest, New York Café, Korhely Faloda & Daloda