Domestic flights in other countries are the best. For $50 I could fly from Santiago to Calama and check a bag. From there I arranged for a transfer from the airport to San Pedro de Atacama, a desert located at the base of the Andes mountain range almost northeast enough to be in Bolivia.
Travel tip: take the shuttle from Calama airport instead of the town. Because of the tourism passing through, theft is common. For a little more you bypass the town and are on the straightest road I have ever seen to the desert.
No one else was on my transfer so my van took me direct to Backpackers Hostel just outside of the center. Fabiola runs this hostel and turns it into a home. I booked a week in a private room. No plans, just interests. I had been texting Fabiola in Spanish all week. She is not only helpful but wildly friendly. As always, hostels make travel more about the community and less about the attraction. Read here for my beautiful experience in Sayulita.
Fabiola helped me plan the most amazing week, provided a safe space, and an open community for friendships.
La valle de la Luna / moon valley
Faviola rented a big van and took 9 of us to Moon valley for a tour. NASA tests their mars rovers here that is how similar the environment is to red planet. We hiked, battled the wind, licked salt off the mountain side and then went to two locations for sunset. The first was so crowded but gorgeous close views of the canyons. The last place was a secret. She pulled our van over and had us follow her up and around this hill. Along with a cooler and some drinks we stood with an unobstructed view of the sun as it descended behind the mountains. What a way to enter the week, we walked back to the van all friends now.
Now that we had all became friends, we started planning tours together. Most of the people I met traveling were young 20 something’s Europeans. Most were traveling around South America for months. One other American was remote working too but he sucked and was constantly complaining.
Me and a group of the girls decided to join the stargazing tour. It left from the meteorite museum located outside of town. After working from the outside tables for the day I was ready to go. The wifi was strong enough for video calls and my clients laughed when they asked me where I was. My response, a desert in Chile.
Stargazing
We toured the museum before heading out to explore the skies. I was carrying around a fur cheetah coat I thrifted it in New York for a wedding. Considering it was the summer it was a weird and annoying thing to carry. But now it came in handy as the sun disappeared the chill came. The bus took us outside of town. We laid down on these long platforms so we could stare up, giggling at our own jokes like high schoolers. Sometimes when I’m traveling I forget that I’m around 10 years older than my new friends.
There was a photographer there that took our photos with the bright night sky behind us. A table of snacks and teas to keep you warm, and lastly, 3 telescopes to view various stars and planets. One allowed us to see the rings of Saturn. Yes the literal rings. We gasped and gawked, so impressed about what we could see above our heads.
Baltinache
Although we were in the desert there was still water to be found. Salt pools that defy gravity and physics sit lost in this endlessly dry flat landscape. The next tour we book first took us to the colorful mountains of the Andes. Iron, calcium, silica, all these minerals change the colors of the mountain. Hues of red, green, white, and brown wind up and down the landscape. Hidden in the curves of these mountains are the artwork of the indigenous people who used to travel through these lands.
We followed the rio grande which had nothing grande about it, we left this area and headed out into the open landscape to find our swimming hole. An hour of driving brought us through endless sharp rocks and a small gate house. We drove through and change into our suits. Wooden boardwalks had been installed over the rocks providing a path for us to get to the far salt pool. The water was warm and scientists are unable to confirm how deep it is or if it even ends. No fear of drowning here though. Your body is literally unable to do anything but sit on top. We played around with silly poses. The water eso blue green, the salt so white, the desert so brown.
To finish the trip, our driver hosed us off, and we had a happy hour in the sunset next to this massive llama made of rocks. It is a two headed llama to symbolize time. One of the people on the tour had a drone and shot us from below. Tipsy now, we all started chatting, well me speaking to them in Spanish and translating to the other girls. Phones were passed around to share instagrams.
Tatio geysers
The last trip was the most touristy one for sure but incredibly special. With a 4am pick up me and my new friends, boarded a bus in all the warm clothes we had. Up and up and up we drove to see the geysers. This is the 3rd largest geyser field in the world. The sun is flirting just behind the horizon. We squeal about how cold we were while our guide shows us different types. The sun rises above the mountains as the geysers spew. They are more active in the morning hence the early call time.
Afterwards we are treated to a beautiful breakfast and the sun to warm our bodies. We start to remove layers and head to the next stop. There is an oasis, this lake nearby that hosts so much life. But most importantly flamingos. Chile has all 3 of the types of flamingos here. We watch them walk and eat with their heads buried in the water.
San Pedro de Atacama was cool for many reasons. But it was special because of the people. Head to the desert, bring a jacket.
Tours
Stay at backpackers and Fabiola will find you all the best tour operators
Food recommendations
Franchuteria the best bakery in town
Adobe delicious, expensive, classic Chilean food
Restaurant Diablillo delicious, affordable, classic Chilean food
Emporio Andino the best empanadas
my feet don't want to go to sleep 
Leave a comment