my feet don't want to go to sleep

Country #42. Turkey!

I started the trip with the 6 day layover curtesy of Turkish Air. I used the the one free hotel night to organize myself. I was coming from Pakistan, after working 3 events in 3 different cities, and coming off a trip to Iceland for New Years. I was a little unprepared.

The next day, I took the bus easily from that hotel right downtown to the next one. I still had some money on my public transit card from the train the day before. I walked easily from the Hilton, boarded the bus, and followed the cities ups and downs until we crossed the bridge connecting south and north. The east or Asian continent was just over the river. The journey from there to the hotel was relatively easy outside of some stairs. Cursing my 50lb luggage, I made it there.

To Stay

DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul Umraniye – hosted me for my free night which you can book directly when you receive the confirmation of your layover extension from the airline.

Orientbank Hotel Istanbul, Autograph Collection – This hotel is famous for being in a James Bond movie. It is absolutely stunning and was the best hospitality I have experienced. The front desk took care of my every need and even ensured I could order delivery when I had to work late and missed the room service window. It is located in the best location, walkable from everything imaginable. I had the center room and could see the river and people watch.

To Eat

Serpmece Çarşı Kahvaltı & Tatlı – there are the instagram friendly Turkish breakfasts with rooftop views and scenic environments. It was raining my January morning so I opted to be inside. This place had all the delicious food you’d ever need, just without the flair.

Közde Kahve – there are endless places to get coffee in Istanbul. All that matters is that you try the sand warmed coffee, sit, chat, and watch the busy city run by.

Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant – this shop was the destination for hippies traveling across Europe. Istanbul has been the crossing points for most of human history so it is no different they took this route to India. This restaurant has vegetarian options and on a cold day the soup was incredible.

To Visit

Eminönü is the region that I spent most of my time in. It is a great neighborhood to stay in, right by the water.

Suleymaniye Mosque – less visited mosque on top of the hill with incredible views. The blue mosque is blue but not the only one worth seeing. Take your shoes off and quietly appreciate the peaceful space. I was surprised at home many customs mirrored those of Catholicism. The set up, the limitations for women, the flow of prayer, we have more in common than most people would think.

Gedikpasa Hamam – THE place to get a spa treatment. There is a Turkist custom with spas surrounding bubbles. They are an extremely clean group of people and have been for centuries. When COVID came through the impact was low because of their regular use of anti-bacterial and soap. The spa experience happened in a private marble stone room with a heated base. We then moved into a smaller room where she dosed me constantly with warm water, soaped me up so much I looked like a toddler in a bath, and scrubbed me. I have never felt cleaner. The experience ended with a tea and delight. A hospitality standard in this country.

Grand Bazaar – I was so overwhelmed by the number of stores, stalls, items for sale, and various people speaking I bought nothing here. I did spend serious time walking through every alleyway seeing truly every item for sale. There were sections for spices, shoes, bags, jewelry, it was never ending.

Basilica Cistern– Water was always a central feature in ancient history. This cistern is the tourist destination but what sits immediately outside of it is the true star. There is a monument marking 0. This is the start of all roads. From here out the Roman empire tracked their journey from this marker. East or West this is where travel began. The Cistern is worth a visit though. As you see how columns were repurposed. Instead of producing cheaper less efficient equipment as we do today, builders took old constructions helping keep some ancient stuctures like this medusa alive.

Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque – the main event is this mosque. This building started in the literal early BCs and was the home for the Catholic Church. Constantinople was the place for all major desicions in the church and they happened in this location. Over time the Turks conquered and converted it into a mosque. Unlike the Spanish Conquistadors, these conquerers just covered up the religious drawings and are still visable today. Peak the Mary behind the covering below. In Islam, no faces are meant to be seen so any remaining drawings were hidden or converted leaving layers and layers of ancient history.

To Experience

Turkish coffee making & fortune telling – book here

Drinking coffee in Turkey is great, but learning about the customs, history, and how to read coffee ground dregs makes the experience all the better.

Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia & Basilica Cistern Tour with Entry Tickets – book here

Doing any of these locations without a guide is truly a waste unless you are a history major. I am guessing you are not so just book a guide. My guide had endless information and expertly took us around all three of these locations. I learned more than I ever thought possible and walked about with a deeper appreciation for this ancient Roman empire than I could have thought.

Bosphorus strait ferry cruise

These are a dime a dozen along the river bed. You can book infinite different trips online before hand but it isnt necessary. They offer dinner cruises, sunset cruises, but really just walk down and choose the next one going. They all have the audio that plays over the speakers so you can understand the landmarks you are traveling by. They sell tea and snacks onboard.

Bonus

As a remote worker, I ended up loosing my nights to explore great restaurants. I was working from 5pm to 1am most days and waking up at 8 or 9 am to explore. This was lighting the candle at both ends. But with 4 weeks of events in February approaching I wasn’t in a position to be unavailable. If you visit, try and go for holiday. Experience these restaurants for me that I heard were worth tasting.

• Balat – Fener
• Olden 1772
• Seven Hills Restaurant