my feet don't want to go to sleep

Feeling ready to take on South America and not sure were to start? The north most part of Colombia has so much to offer and is an easy flight from the east coast of the US.

3 nights in Rosario Islands

Why? Because you shouldn’t spend the entire time in Cartagena. It is a beautiful old colonial town but it is too hot and the islands too gorgeous. There are a variety of hotels from luxury to hostel chic awaiting you. The blue green warm water and infectious smiles of the people who live there make it worth the boat trip. Plus you avoid the crowds ferrying themselves from Cartagena each day.

Where? The Rosario Islands, Isla Grande, and a million nameless places that a local guide may take you. I befriended our snorkel guide who was born and raised on our “large” island as the name translates. He spoke no English but after watching him swim better than the fish around the shallow coral reefs he took us to his village. There we walked up with him to a nameless place that looked more like someone’s house than a hotel. The women came out and took our order. This is when speaking the local language is a game changer. We were only there because I connected with him on the tour, and we were only able to eat from her kitchen because of the conversation I had with her. Her sister and her made us fresh fish platters with rice, salad, and plantains. Our guide got us beers and we bought his lunch. This is what travel should be.

Stay: Secreto Hostel

What? Adventure through the mangrove forest through lakes out to the open ocean to watch the sunset. Hire the boat out to snorkel by a sunken plane and have coconut drinks on a pier. Follow the guide through the island forest paths to the beach at the end of the island for beers with his brother. Hire another boat to the party island for fresh fish, mojitos, oysters, all ending at a beach club where you take a nap on a day bed.

3 nights in Cartagena

Why? For the history of slavery, freedom, for arepas different than those in the cities, for the street art, for the day trips outside of the city.

Where? Most tourists head to the mud pools where you can get a massage and swim around in a mud pit. Every photo is an hour looking queue and a muddy photo. Another adventure was calling though. This is when open plans are the best. We changed our minds and headed instead an hour south to Palenque. The first free town of the Americas. We learned about the enslaved people who walked for days to escape using the sound of the drums to find their way or maps that were braided into their hair. 100% more impactful than a day in the mud.

Tour: Palenque

Stay: Hotel Casa Lola

Eat: Restaurante Celele, Tienda Las Tablitas, La Cevichería, Restaurante Donde Magola, Alquimico

What? Free walking tours where the best food recommendations are shared and restaurants that Anthony Bourdain enjoyed ceviche at. Street walking tours with local guides who stop for beers and tell you about the history of oppression and general struggle the north of the country experiences. 5 star hotels with such luxury and customer service and massages that make you forget the hostel bed and long car ride ahead to the next city.

Tour: Street Art

2 nights in Santa Marta

Why? For a beautiful park really. The town of Santa Marta has incredible restaurants but besides that it is dangerous. More than one local gave me that warning when we arrived. We took an overcrowded bus that literally broke down mid route. We made a special stop to allow a family to drop off a child. People got out of the bus to push it and get it started up again. I sat in the middle front seat not managing to communicate while Amber almost peed her pants next to me. But the park was worth it.

Where? Barranquilla is along the way and is said to have a beautiful Carnival celebration. We were too late for that so we skipped through straight to Santa Marta.

Stay: Casa Carolina

Eat: Ikaro Cafe, Guasimo, Casa Magdalena,

And remember to have clean clothes with Lavanderia Samaria

What? Tayrona Park is the start of a huge park where indigenous groups still live. There are paths you can take through communities and some that take you to the beach. We battled the humidity and incline up and down to be rewarded with fresh coconuts. One of the tribes gathers coconuts and with a machete gives them out. When they are out that is the end. Sweaty and hot the beach at the end welcomes you. Huts are set up selling fresh fish and rice as always. The hike back feels harder after laying on the beach and being weightless in the ocean. You can take it on the back of a horse but come on, you have to earn the fresh fish at the end.

Tour: Private with Driver