my feet don't want to go to sleep

Amalfi is expensive, Positano is mad hilly, Capri is overrun. If you are looking for an Italian coastline with a little edge head to Genoa. The home of pesto, Christopher Columbus, and part of the Italian Riviera, Genoa is a quick easy train ride from Milan.

I had a week before Ibiza and was searching for somewhere new to visit. With direct affordable flights to Milan from New York, Italy was quickly the destination. From there the train can take you over to Lake Como, up north to Switzerland, or west to Genoa. Most people head over to CinqueTerra which is further south or Portofino.

To Stay

Genoa is a port city, meaning it is a little rough when you dive deeper. The lower level of the city along the water is so tightly connected there are some alleyways where only a sliver of light comes through. This makes for dark ways where people do secret business. Staying in the right area is important.

Anywhere around Piazza De Ferrari or Palazzo San Giorgio will get you in the right space. There is even a metro from the train station to get you around the marina. Considering how old Italy is I am always so impressed with their transit. The US fails regularly at this. Don’t get me started about LA.

To Explore

We went in September so it was the low season and there weren’t as many tours running. But there are some gorgeous looking boat trips down the coast and city tours available. We choose the bus to Boccadasse which included an audio guide. For 20 euros return you can get from the marina to this tiny seaside town and learn all about the city on the way there. From there you can snake through the small roads, climbing up and down the hills revealing the ocean from the buildings. Vernazzola Beach waits for you sparkling in the distance. A quiet uncrowded beach full of locals enjoying swimming in the calm waters and taking the sun.

Back in Genoa, climb through the city, careful to stay mostly on the wider streets than on the smaller alleys, and make your way up to Spianata di Castelletto. The views from there of the whole marina are stunning.

To Eat

Now this is the best part. Eating in Genoa is insane. Like one of the best places I’ve been in Italy to eat. Pesto 1000 different ways. Considering this is my favorite sauce I was in heaven. This list is a combination of recommendations from locals I received. Most require a reservation and book up quickly so be warned.

• Il Genovese
• Panificio Mario
• Gelateria Profumo
• Le Rune
• Le Delizie di Castelletto
• Focaccia e Dintorni* – THE best focaccia, we ate there daily
• Sà Pesta
• Trattoria delle Grazie
• Ristorante La Mandragola
• Trattoria Ugo dal 1969
• Cibus13
• Trattoria Rosmarino* – one of THE best meals of my life
• Scurreria Beer & Bagel – cool pub for late night drinks

Genoa has the grit that tourism has removed from most other Italian cities. Walking through the alleyways at night you see some questionable people and get a catcall or two. But finding what is hidden while eating fresh pesto dishes and swimming in the same water as the French Riviera will show a different side to Italy, one I welcomed.