my feet don't want to go to sleep

A walled city, sitting on a cliff, surrounded by the blue green white waters of the Mediterranean, Italian dishes with unique spins, incredible seafood, and Hollywood movie tours? This is one unique place. I visited twice in the summer of 2024.

The Day Trip

Restaurants: Gradska kavana Arsenal Restaurant, Cogito Coffee Shop / Dubrovnik Old Town, Barba, Buža Bar, Forty Four Restaurant, The Gaffe

Filming Locations: Franciscan Church and Monastery, Tvrđava Lovrjenac / Lovrjenac Fortress, Fort Bokar/ Tvrđava Bokar, Jesuit Stairs

With the yacht docked outside the city, we hopped in cabs to explore. The heat is overwhelming in July. We met with Amber’s parents for lunch and a hope of a breeze to cool off. From there we explored the back alleys and stone streets. We popped into the Franciscan Church and Monastery to see one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe and another filming location. After lunch, a black squid burger, we went to the main event, the Game of Thrones tour.

With most of us being huge fans, this was incredible. The entire city was the set for the first 3-4 seasons. The movie tour is the city tour but just with a season focus over history. Croatia gave HBO an insane tax write off for season one so when it took off they were fairly committed to the location. From there Croatia’s tourism soared. Our guide’s husband worked onset and hearing about the city all working on this was cool.

We ended the day at Buža Bar. Famous for cliff jumping Croatian daredevils and the best view of the sunset. It is cash only but a total vibe. After sunset we headed to dinner at an American basketball player’s restaurant. All of these locations are carved into old historic homes and buildings. The stone architecture keeps the heat out and gives the city this white glow. We ended the night at the Irish pub. Rumor has it the actor who plays Tyrion Lannister got so sloshed here then fell asleep in a hostel bed across the street.

Solid use of 12 hours in this gorgeous city but personally not enough for me.

The Week Trip

Restaurants: Mango’s Kitchen & Bar, Coffee Break, Nautika, Peppino’s Gelato Factory, Lady Pi-Pi, Restaurant 360, PIZZERIA OLIVA, Restaurant Panorama

Beaches: Plaža Danče / Danče Beach (Dubrovnik), Bacvice Beach/ Plaža Bačvice (Split), Betina Cave beach (Dubrovnik)

I returned 2 weeks later after the yacht island hopping and road trip up to Zagreb. My friend Katlyn and Heather were meeting me for the week to experience more.

Katlyn and I had an apartment located just outside of Old Town. I flew from Zagreb and she came from DC. Our first stop was lunch spot by the marina. Our luggages sat nearby. Dubrovnik is known for being carved into the mountains. This means literally anywhere you go it is a climb up or down. The cab dropped us not far from the apartment. But with luggage more than a backpack this felt like Survivor. Be prepared, pack light.

Day 1 – Marina lunch and explorations

Dubrovnik is not just Old Town. There are beaches and restaurants galore just outside of the city. The bus takes you there easy but also there are ubers. With the city pass you can use the bus for free. Old Town is small but the best place to get lost in. The endless alleys turning and taking you down quiet pathways. Get a gelato and wander.

Day 2 – Game of Thrones tour

Each guide has a different style tour. Our gorgeous guide took us through the normal locations like the Fortress and the Fort, but also took us over to Lokrum island. Many famous scenes were filmed there and it is another gorgeous place to spend the afternoon. Katlyn went to Fort Royal another filming location there. I worked my 9-5 which in Europe is 3-10 and met her for pizza.

Day 3 – Blue lagoon tour and Night City tour

With the mountainous cliffside that Croatia boasts, there are endless blue caves and lagoons. We booked an early AF tour out to the lagoons. As the first boat there we were able to swim into the lagoon and experience the peace and reflection. Not much later were we overrun with tour boats. From there we swam in a green lagoon and different caves. Based on the sun, shade, and depth the water changes from white to green to turquoise to deep blue. We stopped for a couple hours on a nearby island to swim and lounge. We drank wine and made friends.

Afternoon break for me to work, which was conveniently also during the hottest time of the day. I took my “lunch break” and joined Katlyn and Heather for a night walking tour. This taught us about the history, the wars, and the death that happened in these now swarming with tourist streets.

Day 4 – Beach day, city walls, cable car

With water this gorgeous it deserves specific attention. We walked over through Gradac Park to a quiet more local beach. Locals played water polo, friends sat in tubes enjoying the calm water, older women sunned themselves on the rocks, it was perfect.

We bought the 3 day city pass which I would absolutely recommend. It includes basically everything you want to see and discounts to everything else. One thing not to miss is walking on the city walls. Go late, like the last hour available. Standing on those walls in the sun is a lot. You can take a tour but we opted to make a little bar crawl of it. Walking the north and west sides, stopping for a Hugo spritz, then walking the south and east sides. We exited from there just as the sun was setting and took the cable car up the mountain. All of Dubrovnik sits below twinkling in the golden hour. We had a bottle of wine and a late dinner up there.

Day 5 – Private driver to Split

At this point I had been to Split already 3 times. If you are looking for that guide check here. Going a 4th seemed silly but Katlyn really wanted to visit. Heather knew of a private driver and we booked him to take us there and back. The ride is 2 hours when you can go faster than a 55 passenger bus. We arrived nice and early to Split. Katlyn went of to experience the city and we headed to the beach.

Since there is not much beach but the water is warm and calm people spend most of their time in the water. Heather and I lay on the concrete listening to the club promoters try and invite the teenagers out. Split has a strong club scene. We swim and tan and drink, enjoying the easy afternoon.

The benefit of a private driver means adding stops along the way. We passed a winery on the way down. I called them and they could take us for a tasting. The winery was above the road on the curve of the mountain overlooking a lake. We sipped and snacked feeling stunned. We ended the night back in the plaza with gelato.

Day 6 – Beach day, museums, Michelin star dinners

All I ever really want to do is swim so this should really be titled where to swim in Dubrovnik. The next morning I walked over to where I thought Betina cave beach was. All along the cliff sides there are endless steps and curved concrete paths that lead down to the rocks where the calm waters wait. I took a wrong turn, climbed through a private yard, and somehow ended up at some stairs that took me to the water. The homes over here are out of control huge and mostly empty. I spent the morning reading and laying and enjoying the salty gorgeous water.

In the afternoon Katlyn and I met up to make use of our city pass. There are museums all within the main plaza that the pass provides access to. I tied up my sarong and we toured old buildings that were of course also filming locations. Hungry we made our way to Lady PiPi. A restaurant with a view to say the least. We had some fresh salads and vegetables and willed the breeze to find us.

We ended the trip with an incredible late dinner. My second Michelin star dinner of this Croatian trip. With views of the city walls we sipped wine and enjoyed the small plates with delicious flavors.

Day 7 – flight to Madrid

My 10 week European tour was concluding in Spain. More to come there!

Honorable mention to my Italian sim card. For 20 euros I had the best and fastest service for a month. Greatly helping ease the anxiety of a digital nomad worried about connecting.