my feet don't want to go to sleep

What has Roman ruins, risotto, red wine, honey, Mediterranean seas, local fish but isn’t Italy? Croatia. I spent a month in this beautiful country in July 2024. There are a couple ways to visit if you don’t have a month to get lost like me.

The entry points are Split, Dubrovnik, or Zagreb. Regardless of where you fly, there are 2 things you must see: Plitvice Lakes and the islands. From Split or Dubrovnik you can visit the islands and the lakes are a long day trip. If you want to ditch the mainland and island hop, here is how.

Split was of greatest interest to me because it is literal built on Roman ruins. The Palace of Diocletian is the entire of old town. There is a modern down town with skyscrapers but I stayed with all the tourists. My parents joined me for two weeks and we had this itinerary – Split to Zadar to Plitvice Lakes to Split. I went to Split 4 times in the month I was there. 100% not necessary but it really operates as the best jump off point.

To Eat & Drink

ALL of the water is drinkable in Croatia. The bathroom sink, the fountains with spouts, the tap water at restaurants. Bring one of the many reusable bottles you have and don’t buy plastic. If you need something besides water…

• Dvor – incredible restaurant outside of the downtown. Worth the journey.
• Villa Spiza – cash only, tiny restaurant with like 5 seating areas, the best meal we had
• 4 Coffee – tiny hole in the wall with an espresso machine
• Gelateria Emiliana or Pumparela Gelateria – with tons of choice make sure you are getting one that is legit
• Fig Split – cute brunch place
• Tradicija Bakery – traditional pastries
• NOOR Fine Spirits & Cocktails – with big open windows down one of the alleyways, grab a well made cocktail and people watch
• Meštar o’ Kave – amazing coffee spot for some iced americanos
• Pizzeria Sette Sorelle – absolutely delicious pizza and wine

To Stay

I rented two apartments while in Split. First, with my parents one behind the Church of Saint Francis. This is next to the plaza modeled after the plaza in Venice. Right on the marina walk way and in a cute area immediately outside of the city. I worked from the dining table and listened to the bells toll. Book it here.

The second apartment was for the night before our cruise. With 5 of us, we got a 4 bedroom walk up. It was adorable and had a rooftop view on the wall. With each of us having our own bathroom and bedroom this felt luxurious. Book it here.

To Explore

Split is known for Roman Ruins, Game of Thrones, island hopping, and clubbing. I was there for the first three things. I booked this tour to learn everything about the Roman ruins as I was obsessed. This tour was the perfect one giving you all the context you need before walking around these streets. Dragging your luggage through the old stone streets you’ll miss the architecture and even a sculpture brought from Egypt. Book it here.

Diocletian’s Cellars is another history spot not to miss. Its located under the city and was used for many Game of Thrones scenes. It is so cool down there and the perfect break from the strong Croatian sun.

Not interested in touring, one of the times I came I skipped all the tours and joined the locals at the beach. We basked on the concrete, jumped in the cool calm sea, and sipped expensive drinks. Bacvice Beach is just passed the marina. Walk there and people watching those getting on luxury yachts.

Saint Domnius Bell Tower is worth the climb. Do it later in the day, I was the last hour you can access it. Golden hour is hitting and the view of the mountains, sparkling sea, and the ruins are breathtaking, so is the climb up.

The best thing is Split is not a city where you need a car. Everything is in Old Town where you can barely walk 3 people across much less drive. What you want the rental car for are the nearby towns. Zadar, Zagreb, and Dubrovnik are all accessible by the easy to drive highways. More to come with that..