Do you like coffee? The question should be, do you love coffee? Because if so, more than the beaches, mountains, cities, or forests to explore, you should head to the coffee capital around Pereira. An hour south sits a magical town full of coffee farms called fincas. But that is only the beginning.
The tiny town of Salento is less than 10 blocks north and south making it barely a town. It is the most picturesque place with store fronts and homes painted and designed with bright colors. The doors seem to pop out into the street with their vibrancy. I wanted to visit there for two reasons, the coffee and the Coconut Valley.
Stay
You can fly into Pereria easily from all over the country. We flew from Santa Marta with a layover gone wrong in Bogata. After some intense arguing from what seemed like our entire plane, we were on flights for the next day. We spent the night there thanks for Avianca Air and were on our way early the next morning. Our hostel arranged for the airport pick up, driving us the hour back to Salento. The views from the hostel should of prepared us for how special this place was about to be.
Explore
Before we arrived I was a little concerned because it didn’t seem like you could book any tours online. I joined the whatsapp group for the hostel and learned it was as easy as walking to the main plaza and booking a ride on a rugged jeep. Perfect for these muddy rocky roads that led out to the fincas and further on to the Coconut Valley.
This hike wins the hardest hike I have ever done award. The elevation, terrain, distance, altitude, it never stopped being hard. But the view of the coconut trees slowly being revealed by the lifted fog made it. The entire valley appears and tall slender trees sway and dot the entire mountainside. The view was so impressive after working that hard to reach it. I cannot imagine that emotional charge if I had just walked up from the parking lot.
Inside the town you can climb what seems like 1000 steps for the best view. El Mirador, aptly named, overlooks the town and all the mountains in the distance. Go for sunset. Bring your own water. After we climbed the impossible steps I watched someone carry a 6 pack of soda liters up the same incline. No one needs a soda that badly.
Drink
We choose to visit a larger more industrial finca and a smaller local finca, so small they didn’t even sell their coffee in town. The larger one was called Ocaso Coffee House. They had the best tour showing us the entire process and even allowing us to pick coffee beans off the trees! We enjoyed a coffee and a cake in their cafe while humming birds flew around us. The second location was across the street. Not as easy as it sounds. The road is rocky and muddy and hilly just to get to the main road. From the main road the coffee farm is up a hill. It was worth the climb as this was the best. Their small farm is beautiful in its design and the coffee incredible. The rain fell as we stood under an awning roasting our own beans, grinding them, and then sipping on the result.
Bonus: Cancha De Tejo Los Amigos – this was an Anthony Bourdain rec that we didn’t get to. In the show he played the explosive drinking game. Not coffee but wish I had stopped by.
Eat
Honestly, not the best place to eat. The street food was more appealing. The hostel breakfast was great and after the hikes I was so hungry anything would do. But we did enjoy Donde Laurita which was authentic and delicious.
Shop
This town continues to surprise me. Down Calle Real is a long street holding hundreds of shops selling everything. So many shops sell shoes which seems odd. The designs all unique and so compelling we decided we wanted to buy a pair. As I started trying some on the women helping me brought over the owner. This woman runs the business and says this area is known for shoe production. Even more the local communities work with women in the area. They teach them how to design, how to build, and how to make a shoe. These shoes are sold here in Salento and give the women industry. Parts of Colombia are extremely patriarchal and there are not many ways for women to make their own path. Marriage and domestic service is the only opportunity. These gorgeous shoes now mean so much more knowing it wasn’t mass produced in some country with such low wages that the maker is trapped.
Little towns like this make you believe in the magic of a community. The effective way that everyone works together to make this incredible area of the world be accessible for someone visiting like me is something that shouldn’t be taken for granted. We Americans hunger for authenticity like this. So when you see it in the world, appreciate it.
my feet don't want to go to sleep 
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